1. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl (sifting — passing dry ingredients through a fine-mesh sieve to aerate and combine them — is the period technique; whisking achieves the same result).
2. Work the butter into the dry ingredients with your fingertips, rubbing until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs and no visible butter pieces remain.
3. Add the whole milk gradually, stirring with a table knife until a soft, shaggy dough just comes together. Do not overwork.
4. FOR STEAMED DUMPLINGS: Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board. Pat and roll to 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) thickness. Cut into rounds using a biscuit cutter dipped in flour between each cut.
5. Arrange the rounds closely together in a buttered steamer basket set over a kettle of actively boiling water. Cover tightly and steam for 12 minutes, until the dumplings have puffed, feel firm rather than sticky to a light touch, and a toothpick inserted in the centre comes out clean.
6. FOR DROP DUMPLINGS ON A STEW: Increase the milk by 1-2 tablespoons (15-30 ml) to produce a looser, spoonable batter. Before adding the dumplings, ladle off enough stew liquid so the dumplings will rest on the meat and vegetables rather than sinking into the liquid. Drop heaped spoonfuls of batter onto the surface of the simmering stew, spacing them apart so they can expand. Cover tightly and cook over steady medium heat for 12 minutes, until the tops are set, matte rather than shiny, and a toothpick inserted in the centre comes out clean. Do not lift the lid during cooking.
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