1. Heat the oven to 425°F (220°C), following the same high-heat method used for Custard Pie: the initial blast of heat sets the custard quickly to prevent a soggy bottom crust.
2. In a medium bowl, combine the sugar, salt, and your chosen spice (ground cinnamon, ginger, or nutmeg) or lemon extract. Stir together until evenly mixed.
3. Add the steamed and strained squash to the sugar mixture and stir to combine.
4. Lightly beat the egg — technique: beating just until the yolk and white are unified, not frothy — then stir it into the squash mixture.
5. Gradually add the 3/4 cup (180 ml) whole milk, stirring constantly as you pour to keep the custard smooth and prevent curdling.
6. Pour the filling into the unbaked 9-inch (23 cm) pie shell.
7. Bake at 425°F (220°C) for 10 minutes to set the crust, then reduce heat to 350°F (175°C) and continue baking for 30–40 minutes, until the filling is set at the edges but still has a very slight jiggle at the center, a knife inserted 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the edge comes out clean, and the surface is lightly browned. An internal temperature of 175°F (80°C) in the filling confirms doneness.
8. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack for at least 2 hours before slicing; the filling will continue to firm as it cools.
9. RICHER VARIATION: Replace the 1 1/2 cups squash with 1 cup (225 g) steamed and strained squash, and replace the 3/4 cup whole milk with 1/2 cup (120 ml) whole milk plus 1/2 cup (120 ml) heavy cream. Add 1 additional egg yolk along with the whole egg. Proceed as above.
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