Mock Turtle Soup

By the RecipeCafe Archives

Ingredients

• 1 calf's head
• 6 whole cloves
• 0.5 teaspoon whole peppercorns
• 6 allspice berries
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 cup (75 ml) sliced onion
• 1 cup (75 ml) carrot, cut in dice
• 2 cups (480 ml) brown stock
• 0.25 cup (57 g) butter
• 0.25 cup (30 g) all-purpose flour
• 1 cup (240 ml) stewed and strained tomatoes
• 1 Juice of 1/2 lemon
• 1 Madeira wine, to taste
• 1 Salt, to taste
• 1 Pepper, to taste
• 1 Royal Custard, cut in dice (prepared separately)
• 1 Egg Balls or Force-meat Balls (prepared separately)

Instructions

1. 1. Clean and wash the calf's head thoroughly. Soak it for 1 hour in enough cold water to cover completely.
2. 2. Bring 3 quarts (2.8 L) of salted water to a full rolling boil in a large stockpot (at least 8-quart / 7.5 L capacity). Add the cloves, peppercorns, allspice berries, thyme, sliced onion, and diced carrot to the pot.
3. 3. Add the calf's head to the boiling seasoned water. Reduce to a steady simmer and cook until the head is fully tender and the meat pulls away from the bone easily, approximately 2 to 3 hours. Check periodically for tenderness by pressing the cheek meat; it should offer no resistance.
4. 4. Remove the head from the pot and set aside to cool enough to handle. Remove 1 cup of the face (cheek) meat and cut it into small dice. Reserve the remaining meat for another use.
5. 5. Return the cooking liquid to the heat and boil it, uncovered, until reduced to approximately 1 quart (950 ml). This reduction (concentrating the stock) will take roughly 30 to 45 minutes; the liquid should be visibly thickened and richly colored. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and allow to cool.
6. 6. In a heavy saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat, melt the butter. Continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the butter turns a deep golden-brown and smells nutty, approximately 3 to 5 minutes. Add the flour all at once and stir constantly until the roux is well browned and fragrant, a further 3 to 5 minutes. This step is a roux — a cooked fat-and-flour mixture used to thicken the soup.
7. 7. Gradually pour the 2 cups (480 ml) of brown stock into the browned roux, whisking or stirring constantly to prevent lumps. This slow addition is a tempering technique — adding hot or cold liquid incrementally to a hot base to achieve a smooth emulsion.
8. 8. Stir in the reserved head-stock (the reduced, strained cooking liquid), the stewed and strained tomatoes, the 1 cup of diced face meat, and the lemon juice. Bring to a gentle simmer.
9. 9. Simmer for 5 minutes, until the soup is uniformly hot throughout and the flavors have melded; the surface should show a lazy bubble, not a full boil.
10. 10. Add the Royal Custard dice and the Egg Balls or Force-meat Balls. Stir gently to avoid breaking the custard pieces.
11. 11. Add Madeira wine, salt, and pepper to taste. Serve immediately in warmed bowls.