1. Wipe the tomatoes clean with a damp cloth. Peel (pare) the tomatoes: score an X in the bottom of each, blanch in boiling water for 30 seconds, then transfer to an ice bath — the skins will slip off easily. Cut the peeled tomatoes into rough pieces.
2. Place the cut tomatoes in a heavy saucepan (period term: stewpan). Cook over low heat — approximately 300°F (150°C) equivalent burner setting — for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have fully collapsed, released their liquid, and the mixture is thick enough to mound slightly on a spoon. The color will deepen from bright red to a rich, dark red.
3. Remove from heat. Season with butter, salt, and black pepper to taste, stirring until the butter is fully melted and incorporated. Serve immediately.
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