1. Pare (remove the outer membrane), trim (cut away fat and connective tissue), and slice the 6 lamb kidneys into pieces approximately 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Sprinkle with salt and black pepper.
2. Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat and melt enough butter to coat the pan (approximately 2 tablespoons / 28 g). Saute the kidneys in the hot butter, stirring frequently, for 3 to 5 minutes, until browned on the outside and just barely pink at the center — internal temperature 145°F (63°C). Remove the kidneys to a warm dish and set aside.
3. In the same skillet over medium heat, cook 1/2 tablespoon (7 g) finely chopped onion in 2 tablespoons (28 g) butter, stirring occasionally, for 4 to 6 minutes, until the onion is deep golden brown and fragrant.
4. Add 3 tablespoons (24 g) all-purpose flour to the onion-butter mixture and stir constantly for 1 to 2 minutes to form a roux (a cooked paste of fat and flour that will thicken the sauce). The roux should smell nutty and turn a light golden colour.
5. Pour the 1 1/2 cups (355 ml) hot stock slowly into the roux, whisking constantly to prevent lumps — this is a technique called deglazing-and-incorporating: adding liquid gradually to a fat-flour base while stirring to produce a smooth sauce. Cook over medium heat, stirring, for 3 to 5 minutes, until the sauce is thickened and coats the back of a spoon.
6. Season the sauce with salt and black pepper. Pour the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean saucepan to remove the onion solids and any lumps.
7. Return the sauteed kidneys to the strained sauce. Stir in 1 tablespoon (15 ml) Madeira wine. Heat gently for 1 to 2 minutes, just until the kidneys are warmed through — do not boil, as prolonged heat will toughen them. Serve immediately on a warm dish.
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