1. Remove roots from spinach. Pick over leaves carefully, discarding any wilted or yellowed leaves. Wash spinach in several changes of cold water until no grit remains at the bottom of the basin.
2. Determine whether spinach is young or old. Young, tender spinach needs no added water; old spinach requires boiling salted water.
3. 3a. Young spinach: Place washed spinach (with water still clinging to the leaves) in a heavy saucepan. Cover and heat gradually over medium-low heat. Cook 20–25 minutes, or until leaves are fully collapsed and tender when pierced with a fork, and have cooked down entirely in their own released juices.
4. 3b. Old spinach: Bring 2 qt (1.9 L) of salted water to a rolling boil in a large heavy saucepan. Add spinach and cook, uncovered, 20–25 minutes, or until leaves are completely tender and offer no resistance when pressed against the side of the pan. Note: cooking uncovered in a large quantity of water helps preserve the spinach's green color.
5. Drain spinach thoroughly in a colander, pressing out excess liquid with the back of a spoon. Chop finely on a cutting board.
6. Return chopped spinach to the saucepan over low heat. Reheat, stirring, for 2–3 minutes until steaming throughout. Season with butter, salt, and pepper to taste.
7. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg. Serve immediately.
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