1. Combine the canned tomatoes, thyme sprig, celery stalk, onion slice, bay leaf piece, and salt in a medium saucepan (about 2-quart / 1.9-liter capacity).
2. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook uncovered for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have broken down completely and the mixture has thickened slightly and deepened in color.
3. Remove the bay leaf, thyme sprig, celery, and onion slice. Press the tomato mixture through a fine-mesh strainer (or food mill) into a clean saucepan, discarding the solids. The strained liquid should be smooth and a deep orange-red.
4. Stir in the baking soda. The mixture will foam briefly — this is the soda neutralizing excess tomato acidity (acid-base reaction). Allow the foaming to subside, about 30 seconds.
5. Add the prepared White Sauce I (a simple béchamel: butter, flour, and milk), stirring to combine fully. Return the pan to low heat and warm through for 2 to 4 minutes, until the sauce is uniformly heated and coats the back of a spoon. Do not boil once the cream sauce has been added, as it may break.
6. Taste and adjust seasoning with cayenne and additional salt if needed. Serve immediately with baked fish or lobster cutlets.
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