4 cups (480 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
1 teaspoon salt
1 ½ teaspoons baking soda
1 ½ teaspoons cream of tartar
1 ½ teaspoon grated nutmeg
1 ¼ teaspoon cinnamon
1 ½ tablespoons (21 g) unsalted butter
1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
1 cup (240 ml) buttermilk
1 large egg
Instructions
1. Measure the flour into a wide, shallow bowl. Add the salt, baking soda, cream of tartar, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Whisk briefly to distribute the leavening evenly through the flour.
2. Add the butter in small pieces. Using your fingertips, work the butter into the flour mixture (a technique called rubbing-in: press and smear the fat into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse, uneven crumbs with no large butter chunks visible).
3. Beat the egg well in a small bowl. Add the granulated sugar, beaten egg, and buttermilk to the flour mixture. Stir thoroughly until a soft, cohesive dough forms.
4. Turn the dough out onto a board or counter generously dusted with flour. Knead briefly — 8 to 10 turns — adding additional flour a tablespoon at a time if the dough is too sticky to handle. The dough should be soft but not tacky.
5. Pat and roll the dough out to ¼-inch (6 mm) thickness. Cut into doughnut shapes using a 3-inch (7.5 cm) doughnut cutter or two round cutters (3-inch/7.5 cm and 1-inch/2.5 cm).
6. Pour frying oil (neutral vegetable oil or lard) to a depth of at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) in a large, heavy saucepan or Dutch oven. Heat the oil to 365°F (185°C) on a deep-fry or candy thermometer. Maintain this temperature throughout frying.
7. Carefully lower doughnuts into the hot fat a few at a time, without crowding. As soon as each doughnut rises to the surface of the fat (within 30 to 60 seconds), turn it over. Continue turning frequently — every 30 to 45 seconds — until both sides are deep golden brown and the doughnut sounds hollow when tapped lightly, 2 to 3 minutes total per batch. An instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part should read 195°F (90°C).
8. Remove the finished doughnuts with a slotted spoon or spider (wide wire skimmer) and drain on a rack set over a paper-towel-lined baking sheet. Allow the oil to return to 365°F (185°C) before frying the next batch.
9. Serve warm or at room temperature. Doughnuts are best consumed the day they are made.
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