1. Combine the brown soup stock and rice in a large saucepan (3–4 qt / 2.8–3.8 L). Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is fully tender and the grains begin to break apart, 20–25 minutes.
2. While the rice cooks, combine the stewed and strained tomatoes, bay leaf, onion slices, peppercorns, and celery salt in a separate medium saucepan. Simmer over low to medium-low heat for 30 minutes, until the onion is completely soft and the mixture is fragrant and slightly reduced.
3. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Combine the rice-stock mixture and the tomato mixture. Working in batches if needed, pass the combined mixture through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing solids through with the back of a spoon, until only coarse fibrous material remains. Discard the solids. (This technique is a form of puréeing through a sieve, which Farmer uses throughout to produce a smooth, velvety texture.)
4. Prepare a beurre manié (a raw binding paste): in a small bowl, work the softened butter and flour together with a fork until fully combined into a smooth paste. (Beurre manié: a classic thickener of equal-ish parts butter and flour worked together raw, then whisked into hot liquid to bind without lumping.)
5. Return the sieved soup to the large saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a gentle simmer. Whisk in the beurre manié a little at a time, allowing each addition to incorporate fully before adding more, until the soup is lightly thickened and coats the back of a spoon, 3–5 minutes. The soup is ready when it reaches a temperature of 185–190°F (85–88°C) and holds a slight trail on the spoon.
6. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and freshly ground black pepper if needed. Serve immediately.
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